THE CHINESE TRIANGLE JINGHONG -DALI CITY - KUNMING

After 10 days of relaxing, doing day tours and organizing a visa for China I was again getting itchy feet. Time to throw a leg over the trusty steed and cycle east into the morning sunrise to Chiang Kong - the border crossing point into northern Laos. From there it was only another 250km of cycling through rugged mountain terrain to Luang Nam Tha the final stop before entering China.

Once crossing into China I planned to cycle a triangular route of 1500km through the Yunnan Province in southern China - arguably the gem of China's provinces. My journey will take me through Jinghong - Dali city - Kunming.

Enter China - The Xishuangbanna province with Jinghong as its capital. Incrediable infrastructure with super highways that have 5km long tunnels through the mountains and bridges spanning deep forested valleys. What a change from Thailand and Laos where you are either going up or going down. Talk about making cycling a pleasure. Just metres off the highways you can visit villages that still practice traditional customs - no electricity, no running water and no shops - the hub of the town being the morning market where villagers display their wares. It's like stepping back in time.

Spent two days in Jinghong just soaking up the atmosphere. It's a city of about 90,000 people but has a real lay back feel about it. Beautiful tree lined streets with sidewalk cafes but no coffee. Am I missing a good coffee to start the day - YES!!!

Well the fairy tale of super highways and tunnels came to an abrupt end once I left Jinghong and started heading north to Dali City. My tourist map of the Yunnan Province legends it as a national high class highway. It is the only road north and believe me, in places, it is not much more that a goat track - unsealed, rutted with potholes and rocks - almost unridable by bike and very unsafe as it is just wide enough for two vehicles.

The road from Jinghong to Lincarn (450km) can be catergorized in 4 stages:

1. superhighway with incrediable tunnels and bridges. distance 60km star rating *****
2. unmade mountainous road which at times is only wide enough for one car/truck/bus. distance 140 kms star rating **
3. unrideable and over very steep mountains and still under construction. distance 150kms star rating - nil
4. like riding the Tour De France over Belgium's cobble stone streets. distance 100 kms star rating *

Thank heavens for the trusty Cannondale tourer. It has passed all tests with flying colours. Thanks to Aaron at Cycle Zone in Darwin for his recommendations.

I have now climbed to an elevation of over 2500 metres above sea level. Here the mornings start off with a cool 12 degrees and rise to a pleasant 22 degrees by mid afternoon - quite a change from the 39 dgrees of northern Thailand

THE ART OF SPITTING - CHINESE STYLE (NOT GENDER SPECIFIC AND NOT VERY ENDEARING WHEN DONE BY A BEAUTIFUL SOUTHERN CHINESE LADY)

1. Draw back through the nose.
2. Clear violently through the back of the throat.
3. Then spit.

FOUR MOST COMMON PLACES TO SPIT

1. On the sidewalks.
2. In the mornng market beside the beautiful fruit and vegetable stands
3. In the sidewalk eating outlets - probably equates to a good burp.
4. On the bus - either out of the window or on the floor - nice one.