STAGE 2 RATCHABURI TO KAMPHAENG PHET

After 5 days of R&R in Pattaya catching up with a few expat friends and lazing on the beach it was time to cycle again. My first stop was Kanchanaburi, a popular tourist stop for farang because it is steeped in history. With fields, forests and streams Kanchanaburi has it's attraction in the Death Railway Bridge (Bridge over the River Kwai) and the Thai Burma railway where more than 100,000 POW died in it's construction.

From Kanchanaburi to Kamphaeng Phet I cycled on smaller country roads passing through towns like Lat Ya, Bophioi, Ban Rai and Chum To Bong.

Each day started at about 6am as the day temperatures getting to around 38 degrees.

Farang accommodation in small villages is a bit of a probem. After a long, hot day in the saddle the first things to look for are food and then a room with a cold shower. After finding what looks like knowledgable local and asking in western Thai "Khaw a phai phom di chan kam lang haa baan phak." Loosly translated that means "I am looking fora guest house." He smiles and then I smile and he points in the direction that looks like just down the road and turn left. Now that was easy. After another frustrating hour of asking and getting similar vague responses, the guest house was actually 3km away hidden in the back blocks of side streets near the town market. Now why didn't I look there in the first place.

MY FIRST HOME STAY EXPERIENCE (MR. AND MRS. SINGKHAMHAM)

After any very, very long and hot day in the saddle (aren't they all) I trundle into small village of Chum To Bok at 3pm. Things are not looking good in the area of accommodation. First food and naam yen (cold water). I order plain rice with pork. I then proceed to ask if there is a guest house in town. "Mai Chai, Mai Chai." Now that is not what I wanted to hear seeing the next closest village still being 40km away. Next door the lady who overhears our conversation comes out to investigate. Seeing my state of distress she asks if I would like to do a homestay with her family. Well I could have kissed her. Luckily I didn't because the man who served me my food was her husband. Well what a wonderful experience that unfolded. In traditional Thai style I was treated with overwhelming hospitality and a banquet of homemade thai cuisine. I was also invited next door (where extended family and friends lived) and was entertained with music and served copious amounts of thai whisky. At 40% proof I knew I was going to wake up with a sore head.

STRATEGIES FOR COPING WITH DOG ATTACKS

STEP 1. DON'T MAKE EYE CONTACT WITH DOGS. ESPECIALLY IN RURAL VILLAGES EARLY IN THE MORNING.

STEP 2. IF THE ABOVE FAILS AND A PACK OF UP TO 4 DOGS IS SNAPPING AT YOUR HEELS PEDAL LIKE ALL SH*T AND HOPE THAT THE DOGS LACTATE BEFORE YOU DO. MOST DOGS CAN ONLY LAST FOR ABOUT 100 METRES. IF THE ATTACK OCCURS ON AN UPHILL STRETCH OF ROAD SKIP STEP 2.

STEP 3. AS A LAST RESORT WAVE YOUR HAND (NEVER USE YOUR FOOT OR YOU WILL HAVE A DOG ATTACHED TO IT) AND IN A VERY AGGRESSIVE TONE YELL SOMETHING IN THAI (ANYTHING WILL DO). THAT USUALLY WORKS.