Friday, October 16, 2009
Thursday, October 15, 2009
LAOS REVISITED THE DEEP SOUTH
After a month in Vietnam I headed west through very unwelcome rain to the border crossing of Lao Bao Thinking I was going to grow webbed feet with the never ending deluge of rain I continued on to the beautiful french colonial town of Savannakhet. Luckily the destructive typhoon that ravaged the Phillipines and Vietnam only left a path of fallen trees and local flooding in southern Laos.
The highlight in lthe deep south would have to be the 4000 Islands of the lower Mekong. Just before the Mekong enters Cambodia its banks stretch an amazing 17km from east to west. Many of the larger islands are inhabited by local villagers going about their daily chores (rice growing) without electricity and seemingly oblivious to the outside world.
On the tourist islands of Don Det and Don Khone you can rent a bungalow for $2 a night, relax in a hammock whilst reading a good book and sipping on a beer Laos ( a common pastime). If you muster up enough energy you can hire a bicycle and leisurily cycle around he islands under the shade of palm trees.
The southern island of Don Khone has the Li Phi falls - which in reality are a series of raging rapids and are said to have a greater flow of water than the Niagra Falls.
The first full moon in Oct sees all of the towns along the Mekong celebrate with dragon boat racing. This is a time to make merry, eat local cuisine and wake up the moring after with a raging hangover after indulging in to much Lao Lao (a very potent rice wine). As part of the ceremonies you can make your own bamboo boat that in the evening you light up with candles and float down the Mekong. It is quite a memorable sight to watch scores of these lights flickering downstream on the Mekong.
The highlight in lthe deep south would have to be the 4000 Islands of the lower Mekong. Just before the Mekong enters Cambodia its banks stretch an amazing 17km from east to west. Many of the larger islands are inhabited by local villagers going about their daily chores (rice growing) without electricity and seemingly oblivious to the outside world.
On the tourist islands of Don Det and Don Khone you can rent a bungalow for $2 a night, relax in a hammock whilst reading a good book and sipping on a beer Laos ( a common pastime). If you muster up enough energy you can hire a bicycle and leisurily cycle around he islands under the shade of palm trees.
The southern island of Don Khone has the Li Phi falls - which in reality are a series of raging rapids and are said to have a greater flow of water than the Niagra Falls.
The first full moon in Oct sees all of the towns along the Mekong celebrate with dragon boat racing. This is a time to make merry, eat local cuisine and wake up the moring after with a raging hangover after indulging in to much Lao Lao (a very potent rice wine). As part of the ceremonies you can make your own bamboo boat that in the evening you light up with candles and float down the Mekong. It is quite a memorable sight to watch scores of these lights flickering downstream on the Mekong.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE COASTAL ROAD
HOI AN Vietnam's version of China's ancient cities of Lijiang and Dali. A city caught in a time warp chock full of atmosphere, character and of course an over abundance of tourist shops selling everything from fine silk, ceramics and marble jewellery.
DANANG TO HUE BY SCENIC RAILWALY One of the most scenic rail journies in the world. As Vietnam's central mountain range reaches the sea the train journey slowly winds its way over the range giving passengers some of the most breathtakingly beautiful coastal views that you could imagine.
HUES CITEDAL - IMPERIAL CITY A city enclosed in 10 metre high walls with canals, moats and towers - the tombs of the Ngugen Emperors.
THE BEACHES OF NHA TRANG, MUI NE AND HOI AN All with beautiful stretches of fine white sand, the occasional wave for a bit of body surfing and in the low season hardly a falang to be seen. You can recumber on a beach deck chair reading your favourite novel whilst indulging in a Beer Lao - the peoples' choice.
DANANG TO HUE BY SCENIC RAILWALY One of the most scenic rail journies in the world. As Vietnam's central mountain range reaches the sea the train journey slowly winds its way over the range giving passengers some of the most breathtakingly beautiful coastal views that you could imagine.
HUES CITEDAL - IMPERIAL CITY A city enclosed in 10 metre high walls with canals, moats and towers - the tombs of the Ngugen Emperors.
THE BEACHES OF NHA TRANG, MUI NE AND HOI AN All with beautiful stretches of fine white sand, the occasional wave for a bit of body surfing and in the low season hardly a falang to be seen. You can recumber on a beach deck chair reading your favourite novel whilst indulging in a Beer Lao - the peoples' choice.
Friday, September 18, 2009
THE COASTAL ROAD PHAN THET TO DONG HA
Thailand may have its intensly dense and rugged mountain ranges surrounding Mae Hong Song in its north western provinces. Laos may have its UNESCO world heritage site of Luang Prabang - a small town with a distinctly french flavour. Narrow cobble stoned streets with weathered shop facades. China's Yunnan Province may have its Tiger Leaping Gorge - one of the deepest gorges in the world. A must do 16km trek that avails itself to unbelievable views measuring some 3900 metres fro the depths of the waters of the Jinsha river to the peaks of the year round snow capped mountains of the Haba Shan. Cambodia may have its Angkor - the home of the ancient Khmer empire - a temple renowned for being the largest religious monument in the world.
But, Vietnam has its coastal road stretching some 2000km from HCMC to Hanoi. A road that has stunningly beautiful horseshoe bays like Nui Ne, Nha Trang, Da Nang and Hoi An. As you cycle up Highway 1 your eyes are captivaated by the rugged mountain range that stretches the length of the country. Rice fields from the foot of the mountains to the dunes of the sea. Villages toiling in the heat of the midday sun reaping the rice harvest by hand. Endless kilometres of the highway lined with rice drying the the sun. Yes, this highway has it all.
But, Vietnam has its coastal road stretching some 2000km from HCMC to Hanoi. A road that has stunningly beautiful horseshoe bays like Nui Ne, Nha Trang, Da Nang and Hoi An. As you cycle up Highway 1 your eyes are captivaated by the rugged mountain range that stretches the length of the country. Rice fields from the foot of the mountains to the dunes of the sea. Villages toiling in the heat of the midday sun reaping the rice harvest by hand. Endless kilometres of the highway lined with rice drying the the sun. Yes, this highway has it all.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
VIETNAM - THE DELTA
Question: What is the first thing to wear out and be replaced on a Vietnamese motorbike?
The Mekon Delta is not only Vietnam's rice basket but also its fruit bow. For
kilometre after kilometre the flat lands of the delta are either in the stage of planting, growing or harvesting of the staple diet of the vietnamese millions. As you head towards HCMC the landscape turns to undulating and the fields are transposed to an endless line of orchard of every possible delicious tropical fruit imaginable. On the side of thye road local growers tend their stalls selling pinapples, bananas, dragon fruit, papaya, watermelon, longon, strawberries and durian fruit - just to mention a few.
As the mighty Mekong river winds its way south towards the south China Sea its many tributaries are amass with colourfully decorated fishing trawlers and barges ferrying goods form town to town. From the border of Cambodia I had as many as 9 crossings before reaching HCMC. The people are incredibly friendly and go about their daily routine never seeming to be fazed or stressed.
My highlight of the Delta was a daylong riverboat cruise visiting the Can Tho floating markets which are a colourfu and bustling confusion of boats plied hight with vegetables and fruits. Housewives, paddling their sampans from boat to boat bartering and haggling before negotiating the narrow canals back to their family homes - life revolves around the water.
HCMC My main aim was to successfully negotiate from the southern approaches to the central Siagon Railway Station where I could catch the train to Phan Tiet on the east coast. I soon learned that train station translated to the Vietnamese equivalent of "ben xe" as I had to ask for directions as many as 20 times before stumbling upon Siagon Central - hidden off some back alley. As in China, signs are only in Vietnamese making locating landmarks a little frustrating to say the least.
With a population exceeding 6 million HCMC is a caotic scene of clogged roads. The evening traffic jam is a sight to behold, especially in the rainy season where the skies open to clockwork at 4pm. People just don a rain poncho and continue on their merry way at the same bustling pace - a constant hooting of horns but not a raised vocie in anger or frustration.
There is certainly an art to cycling in such a swarming mass of motorbikes - maintain a constant pace, don't suddenly veer off your line and keep a friendly smile on your face. After finding a hotel close to the railway station I bedded down for the night before cataching the 7am express to the quitet of the east coast fishing village of Phan Tiet - the home of the world famous fish sauce.
The Mekon Delta is not only Vietnam's rice basket but also its fruit bow. For
kilometre after kilometre the flat lands of the delta are either in the stage of planting, growing or harvesting of the staple diet of the vietnamese millions. As you head towards HCMC the landscape turns to undulating and the fields are transposed to an endless line of orchard of every possible delicious tropical fruit imaginable. On the side of thye road local growers tend their stalls selling pinapples, bananas, dragon fruit, papaya, watermelon, longon, strawberries and durian fruit - just to mention a few.
As the mighty Mekong river winds its way south towards the south China Sea its many tributaries are amass with colourfully decorated fishing trawlers and barges ferrying goods form town to town. From the border of Cambodia I had as many as 9 crossings before reaching HCMC. The people are incredibly friendly and go about their daily routine never seeming to be fazed or stressed.
My highlight of the Delta was a daylong riverboat cruise visiting the Can Tho floating markets which are a colourfu and bustling confusion of boats plied hight with vegetables and fruits. Housewives, paddling their sampans from boat to boat bartering and haggling before negotiating the narrow canals back to their family homes - life revolves around the water.
HCMC My main aim was to successfully negotiate from the southern approaches to the central Siagon Railway Station where I could catch the train to Phan Tiet on the east coast. I soon learned that train station translated to the Vietnamese equivalent of "ben xe" as I had to ask for directions as many as 20 times before stumbling upon Siagon Central - hidden off some back alley. As in China, signs are only in Vietnamese making locating landmarks a little frustrating to say the least.
With a population exceeding 6 million HCMC is a caotic scene of clogged roads. The evening traffic jam is a sight to behold, especially in the rainy season where the skies open to clockwork at 4pm. People just don a rain poncho and continue on their merry way at the same bustling pace - a constant hooting of horns but not a raised vocie in anger or frustration.
There is certainly an art to cycling in such a swarming mass of motorbikes - maintain a constant pace, don't suddenly veer off your line and keep a friendly smile on your face. After finding a hotel close to the railway station I bedded down for the night before cataching the 7am express to the quitet of the east coast fishing village of Phan Tiet - the home of the world famous fish sauce.
Friday, August 21, 2009
RETURN TO THAILAND
With visa in hand it was time to head to the border town of Nong Khai. Presented my passport to the customs officer only to be told in a rather blunt and cold maner that my passport had been incorrectly stamped and not signed at the Chinese/Laos border. I was promptly marched into the office of the head of customs to the undertones of "This is a very serious offence and you will be charged for overstaying." A touch of nervousness, to say the least, overcame me as I sat at the table opposite the head honcho bearing 4 pips on his lapel.
Again in a a very cold and unfriendly manner not dissimilar to Arnold Schwartzenegger "Stay here, I''ll be back." Not a friendly "Would you like a cold drink while I go and check on your passport details."
An hour elapsed before the officer returned. Thinking I was going to have to dig deep into my wallet, he thrust my passport under my nose and said that I free to go. No explanation and no have a nice holiday.
Without hesitation I straddled my bike, road over Friendship Bridge and into a friendly Thailand. It was good to be back
Nong Khai is a sleepy town, sluggish in pace and stretched along the banks of the Mekong. Booked into a guesthouse for a couple of days to soak up the atmosphere before I summoned up the mental and physical strength to cycle the 700km south through central Thaland to the coastal resort of Pattaya.
With the lofty mountains behind me I headed south with a strong tail wind through the central plains of Thaland. With a stiff tail breeze and nothing more than speed bumps to climb over I was comfortably riding 100km before lunch. With the dangling carrot of lazing on the white sands and swimming in the aqua waters of Koh Lan I
complelted the journey in 6 days - a little weary to say the least but comfortable with the realization that 10 days of relaxation awaited me. My main aim of coming to Pattaya was ato attend the wedding of my life long best friend Jeff Hunt.
OFF TO CAMBODIA
After 10 vey lazy days in Pattaya it was time to cycle further south and around the Gulf of Thaland and into Cambodia. Highway 1 followed the coastline through the scentic fishing villages of Rayon, Ban Pha and Trat. With the wind still on my back, the terrain flat and beautiful coastal views to my right it certainly made for pleasurable cycle touring. Was this what cycle touring was meant to be. It was certainly not a physically demanding as the previous 5 months of toiling over the mountains of northern Thai, China and Laos.
SIHANOUKVILLE
Once in Cambodia I headed for the seaside town of Sihanoukville. Knowing that I only had a few hundred kms of coastal road to traverse before I reached the border of Vietnam I slowed my pace down even more and spent the bulk of my time in Sihanoukville, Kampot, Ream National Park and Kep. From Kep it was only a couple of hours cycling to the border crossing of Prek chak where I would begin my journey through the Mekong Delta
REAM NATIONAL PARK
Again in a a very cold and unfriendly manner not dissimilar to Arnold Schwartzenegger "Stay here, I''ll be back." Not a friendly "Would you like a cold drink while I go and check on your passport details."
An hour elapsed before the officer returned. Thinking I was going to have to dig deep into my wallet, he thrust my passport under my nose and said that I free to go. No explanation and no have a nice holiday.
Without hesitation I straddled my bike, road over Friendship Bridge and into a friendly Thailand. It was good to be back
Nong Khai is a sleepy town, sluggish in pace and stretched along the banks of the Mekong. Booked into a guesthouse for a couple of days to soak up the atmosphere before I summoned up the mental and physical strength to cycle the 700km south through central Thaland to the coastal resort of Pattaya.
With the lofty mountains behind me I headed south with a strong tail wind through the central plains of Thaland. With a stiff tail breeze and nothing more than speed bumps to climb over I was comfortably riding 100km before lunch. With the dangling carrot of lazing on the white sands and swimming in the aqua waters of Koh Lan I
complelted the journey in 6 days - a little weary to say the least but comfortable with the realization that 10 days of relaxation awaited me. My main aim of coming to Pattaya was ato attend the wedding of my life long best friend Jeff Hunt.OFF TO CAMBODIA
After 10 vey lazy days in Pattaya it was time to cycle further south and around the Gulf of Thaland and into Cambodia. Highway 1 followed the coastline through the scentic fishing villages of Rayon, Ban Pha and Trat. With the wind still on my back, the terrain flat and beautiful coastal views to my right it certainly made for pleasurable cycle touring. Was this what cycle touring was meant to be. It was certainly not a physically demanding as the previous 5 months of toiling over the mountains of northern Thai, China and Laos.
SIHANOUKVILLE
Once in Cambodia I headed for the seaside town of Sihanoukville. Knowing that I only had a few hundred kms of coastal road to traverse before I reached the border of Vietnam I slowed my pace down even more and spent the bulk of my time in Sihanoukville, Kampot, Ream National Park and Kep. From Kep it was only a couple of hours cycling to the border crossing of Prek chak where I would begin my journey through the Mekong Delta
REAM NATIONAL PARK
Sunday, July 19, 2009
THE CANDLE FESTIVAL
The Candle Festival is a woman's parade. It gives young women an opportunity to dress in the height of their traditional finery and display their dancing prowess. This festival takes place on Wan Asa Laha Puja day, the day before the start of buddhist Lent when every Buddhist male is expected to enter a temple at least once in their lives.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
30 DAYS IN LAOS
After spending two enjoyable months cycling around the Yunnan Province in southern China it was time to head further south and enjoy some of the laid back and relaxed lifestyle of northern Laos. With it's distinctive French influence (baguettes filled with port, pate and a variety of spicey additives - beeeautiful), its rugged scenic mountains, the friendly smiles with a welcoming wave and cheerful greeting of sabaai dii, to the casual approach to life, Laos makes you want to cllick down a few gears, slow the pace back a few kilometres per hour and just soad it all up.
After crossing the border from China my first destination was Muang Xai in Oudomxai Province - nestled in the beautiful Nam Ko basin. After speaking to the local mountain bike tour operator I shelved my plans of continuing south and headed north east to the village of Maung Khua (100km of easy cycling following a downstream river). From here I could catch the river boat downstream to Muang Khiaw and then cycle on to Luang Phrabang. A very prudent decision as my alternative was a 50km climb through more mountain ranges and my legs said that the former option should take precedant this time.
Cycling into Luang Phrabang - "The Sleeping Beauty" and then down the main street it reminded me of cycling down Chapel Street Prahan. Cafe after cafe with sun umbrellas lining the streets shielding tourists from the heat of the afternoon sun whilst drinking soy lattes, eating western food and talking on their mobile phones. Luang Phrabang is another UNESCO world heritage listed site - a beautiful old town with streets lined with sweet smelling frangipanis and the brilliant colour of bourinvillas.
A couple of days to soak up the atmosphere and it was time to mentally attune to a few days of serious hill climbing before the terrain started to plateau off on the approaches to Vang Vieng. It was here that I was glad that I was cycling south. From the highest point of the range - 1750 metres above sea level it was a 35km descent to the base. In places the gradient was 10 percent where some serious braking was required. Not a pedal stroke in almost 2 hours as the road snaked down following the mountain ridges - just cramped hands and over heated brake pads.
With the serious mountains behind me I had an enjoyable 60km ride into Vang Vieng. You can always tell when you are approaching Vang Vieng by the sweet smell in the air - not from the frangipanis but from the readily available joints that many of the backpacker come to enjoy. From almost any cafe and bar you can buy happy shakes, happy pizza - in fact happy anything - just don't get caught by the local police who generally turn a blind eye but occasionally enforce the law. Sets you back several hundreds of dollars - now that's a lot of happy shakes. Apart from that, Vang Vieng is beautifully located on the banks of the Nam Song and provides a range of leisure activities ranging from caving, rock climbing, mountain biking, tubing, hiking and rafting. I made this my base for a week and chose to relax and just read a few books.
Next it was further south to the capital of Laos - Vientiane. The countryside that was flat, flat, flat. After five months of mountains it was most appreciated. My journey through northern Laos completed and thoroughly enjoyed it was time to find the Thai Embassy and get a visa before crossing the Friendship Bridge in Thailand.
After crossing the border from China my first destination was Muang Xai in Oudomxai Province - nestled in the beautiful Nam Ko basin. After speaking to the local mountain bike tour operator I shelved my plans of continuing south and headed north east to the village of Maung Khua (100km of easy cycling following a downstream river). From here I could catch the river boat downstream to Muang Khiaw and then cycle on to Luang Phrabang. A very prudent decision as my alternative was a 50km climb through more mountain ranges and my legs said that the former option should take precedant this time.
Cycling into Luang Phrabang - "The Sleeping Beauty" and then down the main street it reminded me of cycling down Chapel Street Prahan. Cafe after cafe with sun umbrellas lining the streets shielding tourists from the heat of the afternoon sun whilst drinking soy lattes, eating western food and talking on their mobile phones. Luang Phrabang is another UNESCO world heritage listed site - a beautiful old town with streets lined with sweet smelling frangipanis and the brilliant colour of bourinvillas.
A couple of days to soak up the atmosphere and it was time to mentally attune to a few days of serious hill climbing before the terrain started to plateau off on the approaches to Vang Vieng. It was here that I was glad that I was cycling south. From the highest point of the range - 1750 metres above sea level it was a 35km descent to the base. In places the gradient was 10 percent where some serious braking was required. Not a pedal stroke in almost 2 hours as the road snaked down following the mountain ridges - just cramped hands and over heated brake pads.
With the serious mountains behind me I had an enjoyable 60km ride into Vang Vieng. You can always tell when you are approaching Vang Vieng by the sweet smell in the air - not from the frangipanis but from the readily available joints that many of the backpacker come to enjoy. From almost any cafe and bar you can buy happy shakes, happy pizza - in fact happy anything - just don't get caught by the local police who generally turn a blind eye but occasionally enforce the law. Sets you back several hundreds of dollars - now that's a lot of happy shakes. Apart from that, Vang Vieng is beautifully located on the banks of the Nam Song and provides a range of leisure activities ranging from caving, rock climbing, mountain biking, tubing, hiking and rafting. I made this my base for a week and chose to relax and just read a few books.
Next it was further south to the capital of Laos - Vientiane. The countryside that was flat, flat, flat. After five months of mountains it was most appreciated. My journey through northern Laos completed and thoroughly enjoyed it was time to find the Thai Embassy and get a visa before crossing the Friendship Bridge in Thailand.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
DALI TO KUNMING
It's been a long time between entries but big brother closed the blog site down in China. Maybe the didn't like some of the comments that were being posted.
The leg from Dali to Kunming was a bit of a mix between the sweet smell of lush pine forestted peaks and deep valleys with villagers planting rice and a variety of green leafed crops to the heavily industrialized with a
constant thundering of thousands of blue trucks laden with black coal, boulders used for ther ever present road works and bricks from the numerous kilns.
It was on this leg of my journey that a came across my first other touring cyclist in China. He was a Chinese cyclist endeavouring to cycle across China from east to west. Quite a challenge because he was hoping to cycle in high alps in the north west of Yunnan Province. I gather that is why he was so heavily laden with packs on his bike. Wit broken communication we excanged tales, took a few photos, said Zaijian and pedalled off in opposite directions.
The closer I got to Kkunming the more I realized that it was just another big city (over 1 million) so to escape the blue monsters I decided to make a right hand turn about 30km west of Kunming and head south to the rolling hills of the Yuangang rice terraces. A wise decision because this route took me through the picturesque Fuxian Lakes tourist region with its hot springs, waterfalls and the national parks of the Xiushan region.
Being a foreigner and then a cycling tourist as well makes you a very novel attraction in most cities, towns and vilages. Old people just look and stare with a blank expression and probably think - What the xxxx!!! Children just want to say "Hello, what is your name? My name is ---- Where do you come from?" Their limited rote vocabulary of Englilsh. Groups of teenage girls just want to say hello and then give a little giggle. - don't know what the giggle is all about.
AH1N1
Cycled into the town of Tonghai at the southern end of the Fuxian Lakes District. Found some accommodation, settled into my room and had a much needed shower. Was just about to crack a Dali long neck ( tastes like dog's xxxx) when there was a knock on the door upon which I was greeted by four very official looking people dressed in white gowns. Somebody must have informed the local hospitlal that an alien had landed and feared that he may have a fever, cough and aching joints and was a likely carrier of swine flu. One official produced a thermometer (don't know where he wanted to stick that) and another produced a whole ream of paperwork wanting to know my every movement for the last 2 months. After a two hour ordeal it was established that my temp was normal (under the armpit) and my whereabouts were verified via my passport I was given the all clear to crack that beer and have a much needed beer.
Yuanyang Rice Terraces
Deep in the south eastern region of the Yunnan Province these rice fields come with a very high recommendation as a must see. These beautifully sculptured rice fields spring to life at sunrise and sunset as the sun's rays glisten from the water filled terraces. It was here that you wished you had one of those expensive cameras with a foot long lens.
Shiping
Well I was lucky to stumble across this gem of a town Listed with a heritage tag, the "Old Town" has all of its original sturctures and cobblestone street charm minus the hordes of mini buses full of tourists of Dali and Lijiang. In the evening you can walk the narrow dimly lit alleys and be invited into family homes to taste bbq bean curd and tofu whilst watching family members playing cards.
Dragon Boat Festival
This traditional festival commences on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month of the chinese calendar and runs for four days (28th - 31st May) Whilst cycling through the towns of Yuanjiang-Majiang and Shiping each town put on colourful street parades and evenings of traditional dance. It is also time where people savour sonjie which is a triangular shaped desert wrapped in bambo leaves and filled with glutonous rice and a variety of sweeteners such as dates, banana, raisins and mango - yummy !!!
The leg from Dali to Kunming was a bit of a mix between the sweet smell of lush pine forestted peaks and deep valleys with villagers planting rice and a variety of green leafed crops to the heavily industrialized with a
constant thundering of thousands of blue trucks laden with black coal, boulders used for ther ever present road works and bricks from the numerous kilns.It was on this leg of my journey that a came across my first other touring cyclist in China. He was a Chinese cyclist endeavouring to cycle across China from east to west. Quite a challenge because he was hoping to cycle in high alps in the north west of Yunnan Province. I gather that is why he was so heavily laden with packs on his bike. Wit broken communication we excanged tales, took a few photos, said Zaijian and pedalled off in opposite directions.
The closer I got to Kkunming the more I realized that it was just another big city (over 1 million) so to escape the blue monsters I decided to make a right hand turn about 30km west of Kunming and head south to the rolling hills of the Yuangang rice terraces. A wise decision because this route took me through the picturesque Fuxian Lakes tourist region with its hot springs, waterfalls and the national parks of the Xiushan region.
Being a foreigner and then a cycling tourist as well makes you a very novel attraction in most cities, towns and vilages. Old people just look and stare with a blank expression and probably think - What the xxxx!!! Children just want to say "Hello, what is your name? My name is ---- Where do you come from?" Their limited rote vocabulary of Englilsh. Groups of teenage girls just want to say hello and then give a little giggle. - don't know what the giggle is all about.
AH1N1
Cycled into the town of Tonghai at the southern end of the Fuxian Lakes District. Found some accommodation, settled into my room and had a much needed shower. Was just about to crack a Dali long neck ( tastes like dog's xxxx) when there was a knock on the door upon which I was greeted by four very official looking people dressed in white gowns. Somebody must have informed the local hospitlal that an alien had landed and feared that he may have a fever, cough and aching joints and was a likely carrier of swine flu. One official produced a thermometer (don't know where he wanted to stick that) and another produced a whole ream of paperwork wanting to know my every movement for the last 2 months. After a two hour ordeal it was established that my temp was normal (under the armpit) and my whereabouts were verified via my passport I was given the all clear to crack that beer and have a much needed beer.
Yuanyang Rice Terraces
Deep in the south eastern region of the Yunnan Province these rice fields come with a very high recommendation as a must see. These beautifully sculptured rice fields spring to life at sunrise and sunset as the sun's rays glisten from the water filled terraces. It was here that you wished you had one of those expensive cameras with a foot long lens.
Shiping
Well I was lucky to stumble across this gem of a town Listed with a heritage tag, the "Old Town" has all of its original sturctures and cobblestone street charm minus the hordes of mini buses full of tourists of Dali and Lijiang. In the evening you can walk the narrow dimly lit alleys and be invited into family homes to taste bbq bean curd and tofu whilst watching family members playing cards.
Dragon Boat Festival
This traditional festival commences on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month of the chinese calendar and runs for four days (28th - 31st May) Whilst cycling through the towns of Yuanjiang-Majiang and Shiping each town put on colourful street parades and evenings of traditional dance. It is also time where people savour sonjie which is a triangular shaped desert wrapped in bambo leaves and filled with glutonous rice and a variety of sweeteners such as dates, banana, raisins and mango - yummy !!!
Sunday, May 10, 2009
LIGIANG -TIGER LEAPING GORGE - SHANGRA LA
Everything that is Dali, Lijiang is X10. It is a world heritage listed town that has a history dating back over 800 years. As its backdrop it has the year round snow capped Jade Dragon Mountain.
With its central market square, the radiating streets are flagged in multi-coloured stones. The architecture is classically elegant Ming Dynasty. As in Dali, rivers that abound in brightly coloured gold fish trickle across streets that are lined with souviener shops and shaded by weeping willow trees. It paints a beautiful picture and undoubtly why so many visitors make it a must see stop on their tour of China.
TIGER LEAPING GORGE Wow!!! Where do you start with the superlatives to describe this experience. It's a majestic 25km walk from start to finish. Classified as the deepest gorge in the world it has the snow capped Habar mountain peaking at over 5000 metres towering over the Jinsha river far below. The walk starts at a relatively easy pace but then you are confronted by the 28 bends. These gruelling bends, that you unfortunatley start to count down, take you up a goat path to the peak of the walk. Here I met Pete, an American tourist, and anoter group of eight trekkers - it was good for the company and the moral support. We all walked together to the Tea Horse Inn which we all quickly decided to nominate as the half way house. A couple of beers, much needed food, a long hot shower and a good night's rest.
The next day, with the hard trekking over, we walked to the end of the gorge and caught a bus to Shangra La.
As beautiful as Shangra La is, I did not have enough warm clothing to cope with the bitterly cold weather. I stayed one night just to soak up a bit of atmosphere and then boarded the next bus to the lower altitude of Lijiang and some warmer climate.
With its central market square, the radiating streets are flagged in multi-coloured stones. The architecture is classically elegant Ming Dynasty. As in Dali, rivers that abound in brightly coloured gold fish trickle across streets that are lined with souviener shops and shaded by weeping willow trees. It paints a beautiful picture and undoubtly why so many visitors make it a must see stop on their tour of China.
TIGER LEAPING GORGE Wow!!! Where do you start with the superlatives to describe this experience. It's a majestic 25km walk from start to finish. Classified as the deepest gorge in the world it has the snow capped Habar mountain peaking at over 5000 metres towering over the Jinsha river far below. The walk starts at a relatively easy pace but then you are confronted by the 28 bends. These gruelling bends, that you unfortunatley start to count down, take you up a goat path to the peak of the walk. Here I met Pete, an American tourist, and anoter group of eight trekkers - it was good for the company and the moral support. We all walked together to the Tea Horse Inn which we all quickly decided to nominate as the half way house. A couple of beers, much needed food, a long hot shower and a good night's rest.
The next day, with the hard trekking over, we walked to the end of the gorge and caught a bus to Shangra La.
As beautiful as Shangra La is, I did not have enough warm clothing to cope with the bitterly cold weather. I stayed one night just to soak up a bit of atmosphere and then boarded the next bus to the lower altitude of Lijiang and some warmer climate.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
DALI
Ah Dali - the walled ancient city that has become a tourist meca - a constant flow of tourists clambering off tour group buses and way too many souvenier shops. Narrow cobble stone streets lined with weeping willows, water wheels and canals. Planter boxes with brightly coloured flowers. Traditional dancing in coloured costumes in the market square. In the evening everything lights up with colourful red lanterns inviting you in to the cafes, bars and eateries.
LAKE EHRUI HU Did the ferry trip across the lake that is the sixth largest in China sitting at 2000metres above sea level. Too my bike on the ferry so that I could explore the villages that dot the eastern banks of the lake.
SHAPING MARKETS Caught the local bus up to the Monday markets. Many of the villagers descend the mountains in their colourful attire to sell vegetables and traditional handicrafts. Very touristy and the ridiculous asking prices can be haggled down to one fifth of the price.
CANGSHAN MOUNTAINS They rise above the Dali Valley with Mt. Malong peaking at an impressive 4122 metres. The southern cable car takes you up to over 3000 metres where an 11km waling trail gives you magnificant views over the Dali Valley and Lake Ehrui Hu.
LAKE EHRUI HU Did the ferry trip across the lake that is the sixth largest in China sitting at 2000metres above sea level. Too my bike on the ferry so that I could explore the villages that dot the eastern banks of the lake.
SHAPING MARKETS Caught the local bus up to the Monday markets. Many of the villagers descend the mountains in their colourful attire to sell vegetables and traditional handicrafts. Very touristy and the ridiculous asking prices can be haggled down to one fifth of the price.
CANGSHAN MOUNTAINS They rise above the Dali Valley with Mt. Malong peaking at an impressive 4122 metres. The southern cable car takes you up to over 3000 metres where an 11km waling trail gives you magnificant views over the Dali Valley and Lake Ehrui Hu.
TOILET TRAINING THE CHINESE WAY
Pre toilet trained toddlers generally don't wear disposable nappies - they are too expensive. Toddlers generally wander around the streets in crutchless jumpsuits. When the child indicates that the urges prevails the parent takes the child from behind and clasps in a rocking position from behind the knees. Number one is just done on the pavement in the street. In rural areas it is not uncommon and not very pleasant when both number one and number two are deposited on the sidewalk. Maybe doggie disposable do do bags would be a good introduction.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
THE CHINESE TRIANGLE JINGHONG -DALI CITY - KUNMING
After 10 days of relaxing, doing day tours and organizing a visa for China I was again getting itchy feet. Time to throw a leg over the trusty steed and cycle east into the morning sunrise to Chiang Kong - the border crossing point into northern Laos. From there it was only another 250km of cycling through rugged mountain terrain to Luang Nam Tha the final stop before entering China.
Once crossing into China I planned to cycle a triangular route of 1500km through the Yunnan Province in southern China - arguably the gem of China's provinces. My journey will take me through Jinghong - Dali city - Kunming.
Enter China - The Xishuangbanna province with Jinghong as its capital. Incrediable infrastructure with super highways that have 5km long tunnels through the mountains and bridges spanning deep forested valleys. What a change from Thailand and Laos where you are either going up or going down. Talk about making cycling a pleasure. Just metres off the highways you can visit villages that still practice traditional customs - no electricity, no running water and no shops - the hub of the town being the morning market where villagers display their wares. It's like stepping back in time.
Spent two days in Jinghong just soaking up the atmosphere. It's a city of about 90,000 people but has a real lay back feel about it. Beautiful tree lined streets with sidewalk cafes but no coffee. Am I missing a good coffee to start the day - YES!!!
Well the fairy tale of super highways and tunnels came to an abrupt end once I left Jinghong and started heading north to Dali City. My tourist map of the Yunnan Province legends it as a national high class highway. It is the only road north and believe me, in places, it is not much more that a goat track - unsealed, rutted with potholes and rocks - almost unridable by bike and very unsafe as it is just wide enough for two vehicles.
The road from Jinghong to Lincarn (450km) can be catergorized in 4 stages:
1. superhighway with incrediable tunnels and bridges. distance 60km star rating *****
2. unmade mountainous road which at times is only wide enough for one car/truck/bus. distance 140 kms star rating **
3. unrideable and over very steep mountains and still under construction. distance 150kms star rating - nil
4. like riding the Tour De France over Belgium's cobble stone streets. distance 100 kms star rating *
Thank heavens for the trusty Cannondale tourer. It has passed all tests with flying colours. Thanks to Aaron at Cycle Zone in Darwin for his recommendations.
I have now climbed to an elevation of over 2500 metres above sea level. Here the mornings start off with a cool 12 degrees and rise to a pleasant 22 degrees by mid afternoon - quite a change from the 39 dgrees of northern Thailand
THE ART OF SPITTING - CHINESE STYLE (NOT GENDER SPECIFIC AND NOT VERY ENDEARING WHEN DONE BY A BEAUTIFUL SOUTHERN CHINESE LADY)
1. Draw back through the nose.
2. Clear violently through the back of the throat.
3. Then spit.
FOUR MOST COMMON PLACES TO SPIT
1. On the sidewalks.
2. In the mornng market beside the beautiful fruit and vegetable stands
3. In the sidewalk eating outlets - probably equates to a good burp.
4. On the bus - either out of the window or on the floor - nice one.
Once crossing into China I planned to cycle a triangular route of 1500km through the Yunnan Province in southern China - arguably the gem of China's provinces. My journey will take me through Jinghong - Dali city - Kunming.
Enter China - The Xishuangbanna province with Jinghong as its capital. Incrediable infrastructure with super highways that have 5km long tunnels through the mountains and bridges spanning deep forested valleys. What a change from Thailand and Laos where you are either going up or going down. Talk about making cycling a pleasure. Just metres off the highways you can visit villages that still practice traditional customs - no electricity, no running water and no shops - the hub of the town being the morning market where villagers display their wares. It's like stepping back in time.
Spent two days in Jinghong just soaking up the atmosphere. It's a city of about 90,000 people but has a real lay back feel about it. Beautiful tree lined streets with sidewalk cafes but no coffee. Am I missing a good coffee to start the day - YES!!!
Well the fairy tale of super highways and tunnels came to an abrupt end once I left Jinghong and started heading north to Dali City. My tourist map of the Yunnan Province legends it as a national high class highway. It is the only road north and believe me, in places, it is not much more that a goat track - unsealed, rutted with potholes and rocks - almost unridable by bike and very unsafe as it is just wide enough for two vehicles.
The road from Jinghong to Lincarn (450km) can be catergorized in 4 stages:
1. superhighway with incrediable tunnels and bridges. distance 60km star rating *****
2. unmade mountainous road which at times is only wide enough for one car/truck/bus. distance 140 kms star rating **
3. unrideable and over very steep mountains and still under construction. distance 150kms star rating - nil
4. like riding the Tour De France over Belgium's cobble stone streets. distance 100 kms star rating *
Thank heavens for the trusty Cannondale tourer. It has passed all tests with flying colours. Thanks to Aaron at Cycle Zone in Darwin for his recommendations.
I have now climbed to an elevation of over 2500 metres above sea level. Here the mornings start off with a cool 12 degrees and rise to a pleasant 22 degrees by mid afternoon - quite a change from the 39 dgrees of northern Thailand
THE ART OF SPITTING - CHINESE STYLE (NOT GENDER SPECIFIC AND NOT VERY ENDEARING WHEN DONE BY A BEAUTIFUL SOUTHERN CHINESE LADY)
1. Draw back through the nose.
2. Clear violently through the back of the throat.
3. Then spit.
FOUR MOST COMMON PLACES TO SPIT
1. On the sidewalks.
2. In the mornng market beside the beautiful fruit and vegetable stands
3. In the sidewalk eating outlets - probably equates to a good burp.
4. On the bus - either out of the window or on the floor - nice one.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
STAGE 3 KHAMPHAENG PHET TO CHIANG RAI
Bike cleaned, body rested and load lightened by a few unwanted, unused items of clothing and it's back on the road to Thailand's northern most province of Chiang Rai. My first stop was the beautiful Lang Sang National Park with its scenic walking trails and cascading multi tiered water falls with icey cold rock pools to sooth aching muscles. Lang Sang park is located in the Tak Province which is a wild and very mountainous region of Thailand with villages like Mae Ramat and Tha Sang Yang dotting the steep hillsides. These refugee camps of Hmong, Lisu and Karen villagers are mainly Burmese Civilians who have been driven across the border into Thailand
My first experience of serious mountain climbing started on the journey from Lang Sang to Mae Sot. Climbing to 2000 metre the large trucks crawled up the mountain slopes at 7 kph enabling weary cyclist to hitch a ride. From Mae Sot I followed the main route north which runs parrallel to the Burmese border passing through very rugged mountainous terrain. The further north you go the steeper the mountains become until it gets to a stage where walking is the easier option - but you are greeted with scenery to die for - streams, caves, hot springs and picturesque mountain pass viewing points - picture postcard stuff. Days start early - 6am to try and beat the daytime heat that rises to 38 degrees.
Mae Hong Song and Pai are the standout towns in the north west of Thailand. Mae Hong Song is set around a beautiful small lake which in the evening turns into a diner's delight with street stall food vendors surrounding the lake selling Thai cuisine to suit everyone's taste. It also has Wat Phea That Doi Kong Mu that towers over the town. Early risers can climb the steps to the top and watch the sun rise over the mountains - a pretty awesome sight. Pai on the other hand is the Byron Bay of northern Thailand. It's a farang hangout. Nestled deep in a valley the streets are lined with cafes, coffee shops, souvenier shops and bars.
It was in this area that I met a lovely french family that was also following the mountain trail. Bruno, Jenny and their 5 year old daughter Lilly. We kept each other company until Tha Lot where I caught the river boat down to Chiang Mai and they continued on Mae Si and then on to Laos.
From Phuket to Chiang Rai, a distance of 2565km was covered without one toot of anger from a motor bike, car or truck- pretty amazing
Now a two weeks break for a bit of sightseeing and relaxing before a move onto either China or Laos.
My first experience of serious mountain climbing started on the journey from Lang Sang to Mae Sot. Climbing to 2000 metre the large trucks crawled up the mountain slopes at 7 kph enabling weary cyclist to hitch a ride. From Mae Sot I followed the main route north which runs parrallel to the Burmese border passing through very rugged mountainous terrain. The further north you go the steeper the mountains become until it gets to a stage where walking is the easier option - but you are greeted with scenery to die for - streams, caves, hot springs and picturesque mountain pass viewing points - picture postcard stuff. Days start early - 6am to try and beat the daytime heat that rises to 38 degrees.
Mae Hong Song and Pai are the standout towns in the north west of Thailand. Mae Hong Song is set around a beautiful small lake which in the evening turns into a diner's delight with street stall food vendors surrounding the lake selling Thai cuisine to suit everyone's taste. It also has Wat Phea That Doi Kong Mu that towers over the town. Early risers can climb the steps to the top and watch the sun rise over the mountains - a pretty awesome sight. Pai on the other hand is the Byron Bay of northern Thailand. It's a farang hangout. Nestled deep in a valley the streets are lined with cafes, coffee shops, souvenier shops and bars.
It was in this area that I met a lovely french family that was also following the mountain trail. Bruno, Jenny and their 5 year old daughter Lilly. We kept each other company until Tha Lot where I caught the river boat down to Chiang Mai and they continued on Mae Si and then on to Laos.
From Phuket to Chiang Rai, a distance of 2565km was covered without one toot of anger from a motor bike, car or truck- pretty amazing
Now a two weeks break for a bit of sightseeing and relaxing before a move onto either China or Laos.
Sunday, March 8, 2009
STAGE 2 RATCHABURI TO KAMPHAENG PHET
After 5 days of R&R in Pattaya catching up with a few expat friends and lazing on the beach it was time to cycle again. My first stop was Kanchanaburi, a popular tourist stop for farang because it is steeped in history. With fields, forests and streams Kanchanaburi has it's attraction in the Death Railway Bridge (Bridge over the River Kwai) and the Thai Burma railway where more than 100,000 POW died in it's construction.
From Kanchanaburi to Kamphaeng Phet I cycled on smaller country roads passing through towns like Lat Ya, Bophioi, Ban Rai and Chum To Bong.
Each day started at about 6am as the day temperatures getting to around 38 degrees.
Farang accommodation in small villages is a bit of a probem. After a long, hot day in the saddle the first things to look for are food and then a room with a cold shower. After finding what looks like knowledgable local and asking in western Thai "Khaw a phai phom di chan kam lang haa baan phak." Loosly translated that means "I am looking fora guest house." He smiles and then I smile and he points in the direction that looks like just down the road and turn left. Now that was easy. After another frustrating hour of asking and getting similar vague responses, the guest house was actually 3km away hidden in the back blocks of side streets near the town market. Now why didn't I look there in the first place.
MY FIRST HOME STAY EXPERIENCE (MR. AND MRS. SINGKHAMHAM)
After any very, very long and hot day in the saddle (aren't they all) I trundle into small village of Chum To Bok at 3pm. Things are not looking good in the area of accommodation. First food and naam yen (cold water). I order plain rice with pork. I then proceed to ask if there is a guest house in town. "Mai Chai, Mai Chai." Now that is not what I wanted to hear seeing the next closest village still being 40km away. Next door the lady who overhears our conversation comes out to investigate. Seeing my state of distress she asks if I would like to do a homestay with her family. Well I could have kissed her. Luckily I didn't because the man who served me my food was her husband. Well what a wonderful experience that unfolded. In traditional Thai style I was treated with overwhelming hospitality and a banquet of homemade thai cuisine. I was also invited next door (where extended family and friends lived) and was entertained with music and served copious amounts of thai whisky. At 40% proof I knew I was going to wake up with a sore head.
STRATEGIES FOR COPING WITH DOG ATTACKS
STEP 1. DON'T MAKE EYE CONTACT WITH DOGS. ESPECIALLY IN RURAL VILLAGES EARLY IN THE MORNING.
STEP 2. IF THE ABOVE FAILS AND A PACK OF UP TO 4 DOGS IS SNAPPING AT YOUR HEELS PEDAL LIKE ALL SH*T AND HOPE THAT THE DOGS LACTATE BEFORE YOU DO. MOST DOGS CAN ONLY LAST FOR ABOUT 100 METRES. IF THE ATTACK OCCURS ON AN UPHILL STRETCH OF ROAD SKIP STEP 2.
STEP 3. AS A LAST RESORT WAVE YOUR HAND (NEVER USE YOUR FOOT OR YOU WILL HAVE A DOG ATTACHED TO IT) AND IN A VERY AGGRESSIVE TONE YELL SOMETHING IN THAI (ANYTHING WILL DO). THAT USUALLY WORKS.
From Kanchanaburi to Kamphaeng Phet I cycled on smaller country roads passing through towns like Lat Ya, Bophioi, Ban Rai and Chum To Bong.
Each day started at about 6am as the day temperatures getting to around 38 degrees.
Farang accommodation in small villages is a bit of a probem. After a long, hot day in the saddle the first things to look for are food and then a room with a cold shower. After finding what looks like knowledgable local and asking in western Thai "Khaw a phai phom di chan kam lang haa baan phak." Loosly translated that means "I am looking fora guest house." He smiles and then I smile and he points in the direction that looks like just down the road and turn left. Now that was easy. After another frustrating hour of asking and getting similar vague responses, the guest house was actually 3km away hidden in the back blocks of side streets near the town market. Now why didn't I look there in the first place.
MY FIRST HOME STAY EXPERIENCE (MR. AND MRS. SINGKHAMHAM)
After any very, very long and hot day in the saddle (aren't they all) I trundle into small village of Chum To Bok at 3pm. Things are not looking good in the area of accommodation. First food and naam yen (cold water). I order plain rice with pork. I then proceed to ask if there is a guest house in town. "Mai Chai, Mai Chai." Now that is not what I wanted to hear seeing the next closest village still being 40km away. Next door the lady who overhears our conversation comes out to investigate. Seeing my state of distress she asks if I would like to do a homestay with her family. Well I could have kissed her. Luckily I didn't because the man who served me my food was her husband. Well what a wonderful experience that unfolded. In traditional Thai style I was treated with overwhelming hospitality and a banquet of homemade thai cuisine. I was also invited next door (where extended family and friends lived) and was entertained with music and served copious amounts of thai whisky. At 40% proof I knew I was going to wake up with a sore head.
STRATEGIES FOR COPING WITH DOG ATTACKS
STEP 1. DON'T MAKE EYE CONTACT WITH DOGS. ESPECIALLY IN RURAL VILLAGES EARLY IN THE MORNING.
STEP 2. IF THE ABOVE FAILS AND A PACK OF UP TO 4 DOGS IS SNAPPING AT YOUR HEELS PEDAL LIKE ALL SH*T AND HOPE THAT THE DOGS LACTATE BEFORE YOU DO. MOST DOGS CAN ONLY LAST FOR ABOUT 100 METRES. IF THE ATTACK OCCURS ON AN UPHILL STRETCH OF ROAD SKIP STEP 2.
STEP 3. AS A LAST RESORT WAVE YOUR HAND (NEVER USE YOUR FOOT OR YOU WILL HAVE A DOG ATTACHED TO IT) AND IN A VERY AGGRESSIVE TONE YELL SOMETHING IN THAI (ANYTHING WILL DO). THAT USUALLY WORKS.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Hi to all,
I have entered a new era of technology - my first blog entry. I have been on the road now for three week. The gods have been kind to me. Although it is very hot during the day - 37 degrees, the winds are blowing from the SE. As my journey is from Phuket to the north of Thailand this is a real blessing.
After a 20hr stopover in Singapore and a much needed overnight rest in Phuket my journey started on the Feb 7th - Phuket to Koh Lak - distance 80km. I started fresh and feeling good but by about the 60km mark the strains of pedalling a 35kg load over undulating terrain was starting to take it's toll. And I thought road cycling on a carbon fibre Orbea was difficult. At the end of the first day I was totally knackered - legs were sore and as tight as a drum. All a bit sad - I needed a rest after only one day. The rest day was a blessing. Water therapy in the crystal clear waters of Koh Lak and another goods nights rest gave me a new found sense of energy and I was ready to head off again.
From Koh Lak I headed on up the west coast of the southern penninsula of Thailand visiting towns like Bang Ben, Hat Wua Laen and then over to the east coast to Bang Shapan Yai, Hua Hin and Cha am. All beautiful coastal towns with crystal clear water and delicious seafood to savor.
I am currently in Ratchabur with is about 120km west of Bkk. I am staying for a couple of days of R&R before I start heading into the mountains that border Thailand and Burma.
The main highway when I have to use it is very safe as there is a very wide shoulder for cyclists and motor bikes. The rural roads have minimal traffic but dogs can be a real problem.
I must be like a red rag at a bull with my orange flag fluttering in the breeze and my bright orange disco vest shing like a beacon.
Take care and safe cycling.
I have entered a new era of technology - my first blog entry. I have been on the road now for three week. The gods have been kind to me. Although it is very hot during the day - 37 degrees, the winds are blowing from the SE. As my journey is from Phuket to the north of Thailand this is a real blessing.
After a 20hr stopover in Singapore and a much needed overnight rest in Phuket my journey started on the Feb 7th - Phuket to Koh Lak - distance 80km. I started fresh and feeling good but by about the 60km mark the strains of pedalling a 35kg load over undulating terrain was starting to take it's toll. And I thought road cycling on a carbon fibre Orbea was difficult. At the end of the first day I was totally knackered - legs were sore and as tight as a drum. All a bit sad - I needed a rest after only one day. The rest day was a blessing. Water therapy in the crystal clear waters of Koh Lak and another goods nights rest gave me a new found sense of energy and I was ready to head off again.
From Koh Lak I headed on up the west coast of the southern penninsula of Thailand visiting towns like Bang Ben, Hat Wua Laen and then over to the east coast to Bang Shapan Yai, Hua Hin and Cha am. All beautiful coastal towns with crystal clear water and delicious seafood to savor.
I am currently in Ratchabur with is about 120km west of Bkk. I am staying for a couple of days of R&R before I start heading into the mountains that border Thailand and Burma.
The main highway when I have to use it is very safe as there is a very wide shoulder for cyclists and motor bikes. The rural roads have minimal traffic but dogs can be a real problem.
I must be like a red rag at a bull with my orange flag fluttering in the breeze and my bright orange disco vest shing like a beacon.
Take care and safe cycling.
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